Tutorials


Anchor Setup Guide

This video will walk you through how to create different anchor setups for top rope, multi-pitch, and abseiling climbs.

Anchors are used at the top of a climb, typically after you’ve ascended. On bolted routes, there are usually two anchor points at the top, either separate or connected by a chain.

Best Practice: Redundancy

To increase safety, it’s essential to create redundant anchors. This means using more than one point of contact to help distribute the load evenly. Redundancy reduces the risk of failure—if one anchor point fails, the other will still secure you.

Equalizing is the art of sharing the loads evenly on both bolts. This video will show three variations of this.

  • Figure 8/overhand master point anchor. Simple, identifiable and commonly used. Super versatile.

  • Self equalizing limiting knot anchor. Good for wandering routes when the fall line will change position.

  • Girth-hitch master point anchor. This requires the least amount of gear and has no knots. Easy to untie!


Stripping a climb - rappel method

This video will show one method of stripping a climb. If you are single-pitch climbing and the anchor bolts at the top are smooth rings designed to have the rope run through it, you may choose to be lowered rather than rappelling. When you are multipitching, you will usually use the rappel method because it is quick and efficient.

You, or someone else, will have built an anchor or set up a top rope first. Stripping allows you to return to the ground, retrieving all of your gear.

Safe method

In essence, your set up your safety, independent of your rope. Next you rejig your rope for rappel. And finally, once you are happy (really happy!) with your new system, you come off safety and control your descent. You are your backup. There is no one to check your set up.

  1. Ascend.

  2. Attached your safety’s (cows tail or anchor chain) to the anchor points - with redundancy.

  3. Secure the rope - tie a knot in the rope and clip it to you so that it doesn’t fall accidentally after you untie.

  4. Communicate with your belayer - and come off belay

  5. Untie from the rope.

  6. Thread the rope through the anchor bolts, finish with a stopper knot to ensure it doesn’t slip back out, and so you don’t rappel off the end of your rope

  7. Untie the back up knot. Pull required rope length through the anchors and throw down - calling before you do

  8. Place a prusik around both ropes.

  9. Thread the ATC, clip onto your safety somewhere

  10. Take up slack and test the system.

  11. If you are happy and you know it, clap your hands!

  12. Derig the anchor, remove all gear attached to the wall, except the rappel system

  13. Rappel, and collect your gear as you lower